T Bottom Tote Rubber Cement

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This topic contains 6 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Richard Manigault 2 years, 4 months ago.

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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  • #13844

    Janice
    Member

    I have started my first lesson but having problems with the rubber cement.  I’m using a faux leather with the fussy backing and Pellon 71 for the interfacing.  I have put the rubber cement on the top of both pieces to fold the top down.  I waited for it to dry but can not get it to stick and hold.   Any suggestions?  Also Linda had us cut 4 straps 3/8″ larger all way around to the master but in the video she then does them with a wider outside and 2 stays placement a fraction apart.  Does it matter which way we do them?

    #13845

    Janelle
    Participant

    I too have trouble with rubber cement.  I purchased mine at Tandy Leather.  It seems to evaporate when I put it on fabric. I’m not able to ‘turn’ my edges over and have them stick.  I can’t figure it out.  🙂

    #13849

    Hi Janice and Janelle,

    Faux leather backing and Pellon absorbs rubber cement. In addition rubber cement evaporates, here is the funny thing, if the rubber cement is fresh it soaks into anything porous because it is so thin or liquid. At that point you have to use a few coats of it so that it stands or builds up on top of the material. As you use the container of rubber glue it thickens because it is evaporating, but when it gets the perfect thickness it holds better on porous material, if it gets too thick then it’s rolls off or clumps up and becomes harder to use.

    Janice I think you are talking about straps. The wider is the outside material pattern so that the edges of the straps or handles are turned and finished, once sewn. Then the strap is folded in half and sewn. If I’m wrong about what part of the bag you are looking at let me know.

    #14164

    Stephanie
    Member

    Hi,

    I am using contact cement instead of rubber cement as I could not get the rubber cement to bond.  Is there any reason why I should not be using this?

    Thanks!

    Stephanie

    #14171

    Stephanie,
    Are you using it for Vinyl? It also depends on the brand of rubber cement you are using too. Contact can gum up your needle and also effect the stitch by cling too the thread.

    #14651

    M. D.
    Member

    I just started lesson 1 Tbottom tote. I’m not clear on both questions mentioned in the thread above:

    1) Strap pattern: the master I cut at 3/4 inch, but adding 3/8 inch seam allowance to the outside pattern all the way around doesn’t make it wide enough to glue two strips of stays down the middle and have enough for turning as shown in the video…..how wide did Linda cut her outside pattern for the 3/4 inch strap master pattern. Hope that question makes sense. Image attached.

    2) I’m still confuse between RUBBER cement and CONTACT cement. … The ” Best Test Contact Cement” featured in the video is no longer manufactured……What’s the best alternative for fabric and leather. Thank you

    #14653

    Hi Myriam,

    If you want to make a 3/4 inch strap, you can cut two separate strips and add your seam allowance all the way around. Then place on top of each other and stitch together. This strap has two seams.

    If you are making a strap the folds and is then stitched. This would be your formula: 3/4+3/4+1/8+ 3/8+3/8 = 2″5/16. I think that’s right. The 3/4″ represents the strips, 1/8″ the gap between the strips so that when you fold it over they don’t fold on top of each other. The 3/8″ represents your seam allowance. This strap has one seam but both edges can be stitched.

    Rubber cement is not permanent, it is meant to hold the material in place for a short time, until sewn. Contact cement is permanent, it is meant to hold forever ( but never does) and has a strong bond. Some fabric based on the tightness of the weave will absorb rubber cement, so you may have to use a double layer. The best rubber cement and contact is Barge, which is sold at Tandy.

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