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Hi Elaine – As Richard explained there are 3 options for the gusset, shaped, straight or all-in-one. Richard is explaining the shaped gusset – so that is where he will get his measurements from. Walking the gusset pattern to give him the size of his front and back. (overall length divided by 2)
You use the master pattern to mark all the design elements you are going to have on your bag. When you mark your gusset for embellishments that is referring to the placement of pockets or straps or any other design element you want and to be able to know where it will be placed, so it will always be in the same place each time you make that particular bag. You could create different embellishment options on the same shape but will make it look very different.
His gusset measures 9 1/2″ divide by 2 = 4 3/4″ which is the measurement for the base of his bag so he marked this then cut it off the original master pattern to make the base pattern master.
In your photo you have decided to make the front and back shaped with a straight gusset. You walked the body pattern to get your length, now you can leave this as one piece or divide it.
I hope this helps.
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