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Hallo,
these days I was working on a pattern (not a particular assignment, because I don’t know how to classify this construction) that I tried to make some years ago. I made an evening clutch for a friend of mine, it wasn’t bad but when I took out the pattern right now, I realised how poor it was…
So I think what came out is not bad, but I made some mistakes… and I still don’t know if there is a way to make a perfect lining for this without failing at first attempt. I had to try and the pattern was far from being perfect (too long then too short, the lining is difficult because the bag bends and bending the inside creases with excess material).
Then I was wondering what is that glue that is permanent and so durable that can be a substitute of stitching in difficult sewing parts.
What do you think?
Simona~! Your clutch is outstanding on many levels. I love your unique and oh so individual style!
Sorry to say, I don’t know the glue you are inquiring about. Is your lining going to be fabric or leather?
I hope to find out the answer to your question, too.
Marlys
Hi Simona,
The answer to your question is the lining is pre- lined and the linning is shorter so all the bends in the bag are accounted for. The flap is sewn with the bend on a cylinder. If I could see what happen inside then I could better help. The construction is semi-constructed with a pleated gusset.
Astoundingly beautiful, Simona!
You might want to check out Chapter 4 Borsa por Signora “Coccodrillo”. 😉
Hi! I am sorry I could answer only now, the week was a bit busy!
Thank you everyone, you are so kind, but I wanted to show all the mistakes I made this time…. Sometimes it is a matter of thickness of leather, sometimes it is my fault because I couldn’t calculate precisely how the lining should fit while bending. This time i think it is the second one. I want to make another one to be sure the pattern works properly, this bag was a sort of mock up (I used remnants of leather for the black part, while inside I used some kind of fabric resembling suede). The handle should be a little thicker, I think. Here are the pictures:
I forgot to sew the sides to the lining!!!!
And here one side fits but not the other one, but it probably depends on the way I attached the flap piece, because on the whole it created creases in the lining part (see below)
Hi! I am sorry I could answer only now, the week was a bit busy!
Thank you everyone, you are so kind, but I wanted to show all the mistakes I made this time…. Sometimes it is a matter of thickness of leather, sometimes it is my fault because I couldn’t calculate precisely how the lining should fit while bending. This time i think it is the second one. I want to make another one to be sure the pattern works properly, this bag was a sort of mock up (I used remnants of leather for the black part, while inside I used some kind of fabric resembling suede). The handle should be a little thicker, I think. Here are the pictures:
I forgot to sew the sides to the lining!!!!
And here one side fits but not the other one, but it probably depends on the way I attached the flap piece, because on the whole it created creases in the lining part (see below)
Hi Simona, I have been thinking about your design all day. I know you showed me a sketch but the pictures make it easier to understand. It appears that you have created a recessed gusset. You have already made a recessed collar – the same technique applies to the gusset.
I think you would avoid the distortion of the lining if you notch your gusset and lining plus using stays.
It might be helpful to do a mock up – even in just paper to work out the sewing / construction sequence and writing it down so you put your bag together in the right order.
Hi Simona,
It looks like you should have used a tailored lining. It would have given you a cleaner look inside the bag. In the flap you could have use a 1/16 foam which is really thin to set your flap up to fold with out creating wrinkles. When you create a tailored lining much of your lining will be a stay. You can look at the clutch lesson in intermediate or as Adona suggested Chapter 4 Borsa por Signora “Coccodrillo”.
Hi Janice,
Chapter 4 Borsa por Signora “Coccodrillo” is part of a library of techniques that I have taught in an Italian Design school.
I love that you are sharing your process with us all…thank you!! I was playing around with a clutch design myself last week (I have the, ‘Look it is something shiney,’ distraction problem, often) and I struggled with some of those same things…though my attempt is no where near as beautiful as yours….and that hardware! love it.
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